Some browsing for you

Just thought I'd share some of my browsing with you, the internet and utube can be excellent resources but we don’t all have the time to.

 How to train zucchini - part 1  &  part 2

 

When to harvest Garlic

Growing ginger in pots

Monthly Natter - November

Busy Times....I always refer to a Jackie French quote during this time of year "What you plant in the next two months will determine what you'll be eating next winter and spirng." all this preperation planting and we have to be patient for that long? What she means is that the long tern crops that need some planning should be planted now and will see you thorough the next eight months or so. these are things like carrots, beetroot, parsnips, leeks, parsley, silverbeet, celery turnps and jerusulum artichokes. Even some cauliflowers could go in now, the long maturing ones like paleface which need 5 months to mature. These are a bit tricker to time, plant them too early & they'll just bolt, too late and they wont do anything till next spring. Try planting them in a cooler spot and slowing them down by mulching very heavily. Planting root vegetables every six weeks will ensure a continuous supply, corn every two - three weeks, beans a new lot every time the last lot starts flowering.

Our Rushworth visit was a lovely day, Big thanks to those that made it possible and so enjoyable.

Spring Seed Saving

Just though I would share with you a few of the vegetables that are going to seed in my garden,

Borage, this will come up everywhere, excellent for attracting bees and providing potassium.

Rocket flowers, I will shake these inbetween my beds and around my fruit beds to encourage seeds to sprout in new spots.

Rocket seed pods starting to form, these plants were producing all through winter, left for another 4 weeks they should be sending seeds all over the place.

Dill, starting to flower. As I'm not growing any fennel at moment I should get fairly pure seeds. Fennel and Dill will cross so only grow one for seeds

Parsley Flower

The first group are the Volunteer Plants, these are the ones that germinate on their own accord in the garden.  I don't make an effort in planting or collecting seeds, I just let the flower heads develop from the best plants at the end of their life-cycle. After the seeds have formed and dried, nature disperses them around for me. Sometimes a gentle shake in the direction I want the seeds to fall is all that is needed. The next step is to manage the volunteers and create order from the chaos. Identifying plants while they're juveniles is a very important gardening skill that gets better with practice.  In my garden these plants are the rocket, Lettuce and parsley, borage, parsnips and dill and I'm always guaranteed a constant supply of these if I plan my beds to leave a few of each plant to go to seed.

The next group are the ones I spend a little more effort on and plan to let the plants go to seed, which I will then collect and dry for storing until the next suitable time for planting.

Peas, the best pods from the best plant was clearly marked so it wasn't picked.



Carrot sending up thick flower stalk



Carrot flower just forming, i will stake to give it some support as it will be a good 4-6 weeks before seed is mature and ready for collection

Broad Beans again like the peas these are the best pods, from the best producing plants.

This group of plants are the peas, broad beans, carrots, and Kale. I have to plan these a little better, leaving the ones I want to save to mature, then collecting for drying. The Peas and beans will dry on the bush then once the whole plant has started to brown off and dry I pull it up and hang them up for another week to dry out some more before I pick the pods off. The carrots will have been in since last spring, so I have planned to leave this space in my bed for them to sit over winter and send up a big thick flower stalk. I also need to stake these, keeping a close eye on the seed head as it starts to brown so I can cover with a paper bag before the seeds fall and spread all over the place, I will also leave these to hang  with the bag covering them for several weeks before I process them for seeds.

As for the kale I want to save the cavalo nero  seeds, not much is needed but I have been picking out the flowering heads of the other varieties I don't want, as this season I grew several types. I have also been picking out the flower heads of the cavalo nero plants that have been attacked more by insects, and haven't really preformed well at all, this ensures that the weaker plants don't breed with the better ones.

I hope these hints have helped you decide what you might leave to go to seed and which ones you need to give a little more thought to.

Pumpkins Zucchini & Melons - Clearing up what you can and cant do

Pumpkins Zucchini  Melons, & Cucumbers, these are the Cucurbits, and they always attract the most confusion and questions when it comes to seed saving.
The best way to approach it is at the beginning of the growing season so that you can plan what you grow and what to do when it comes to saving seeds.

My biggest tip if you want to save seeds from The Cucurbits - ONLY GROW ONE TYPE from each group, that way there is no confusion with cross- pollination.
When it comes to knowing which group it comes from ASK that's what I'm here for, but use this as a general guide.

Some species are simple --- cucumbers are all in the same species (Cucumis sativus) while most melons are in a related but distinct species (Cucumis melo.)  Watermelons are in their own species --- Citrillus vulgaris.  So, if you want to save cucumber seeds, plan to only grow one variety of cucumber in your garden.  Same with melons, though you can grow watermelons and canteloupes side by side with no problems since they're in different species.

There are actually four species which cover the vegetables we call pumpkins/squashes - one from each group may be grown together without crossing


Curcurbita maxima
These are generally the big pumkins. Jarrahdale; Qld. Blue; Atlantic Giant; Golden Nugget; Baby Blue; Triamble; Hubbard; Turban; Banana; and Buttercup
Queensland Blue - - large pumpkin, dark slate grey ribbed skin, sweet deep orange flesh, top keeper

Triamble – large 3-lobed, tough grey skin, deep orange flesh, sweet, firm & dry

Ironbark – hard skin, dry orange flesh

Australian Butter – similar to Qld Blue, with yellow skin, mildew resistant

Blue Banana – thick firm orange-yellow flesh, pale blue skin, approx 15 x 40 cms, does well in dry, good keeper

Curcurbita moschata
Butternuts; Japs; Crookneck (Golden cushaw), Grammas.
Paw Paw gramma – sweet, thick deep yellow flesh with nutty flavour, trailing vine, fruit to 4kg, appearance of pawpaw, disease resistant

Bink’s gramma – Robena calls this one of the best taste wise

Dennis’ giant butternut – a fat butternut

Dennis’ trombone – green skin, trombone shape with long neck, sweet & used for pies, scones, soup etc

Long neck butternut – long necks mean more solid flesh with no cavity

Curcurbita pepo
all summer squashes (zucchini, yellow squashes, etc.), some of the gourds, patty pan, delicata, summer crookneck squash
Table Gem squash – heavy cropping, acorn shaped fruit approx 6”, dark green rind with thick dry orange flesh, bush, allow to mature fully before picking

Spaghetti squash – vigorous vine, cylindrical fruit to 12”, yellow, spaghetti like flesh, bake or boil (and use flesh as spaghetti, with sauce of choice)
Kumu Kumi also known as 'Kamo Kamo' by Maori people.

Curcurbita mixta
Windsor Black pumpkin – vigorous vine, dark skin, firm dry orange flesh
pumpkin like Green Striped Cushaw but this species is not common in Australia

One thing to remember with pumpkins is that if the seeds are the same - shape and colour they will cross.


If you want to grow more than one variety of the same group you will need to hand pollinate, if you don't want to or can't the following season it will grow a cross, sometimes still edible but no good for seed saving. Just enjoy the harvest, observe how each plant performed and share this information, just DON'T save the seeds. .

To hand pollinate you need to start the day before identifying male & female flowers that are almost ready to open. They are starting to yellow but still shut tightly.

Female flowers. A tiny baby pumpkin or swelling is located between the stem and the flower. The female flower will be close to the vine and the stem will only be a couple of inches long. In the center is a multi segmented stigma which must be pollinated in order for the fruit to develop. the picture above shows a mature female with her flower open. You need to select one that is un-opened, seal it and come back to it the next day.

and here are some more examples of female flowers

Female Watermelon flower (open)



Female Cucumber flower




Female Zucchini Flower







Male Flowers are on a stem that is fairly thin and shoots up several inches to a foot above the vine. The center stamen contains the pollen. Pollen is mature if it readily comes off the stamen and onto your finger. Again identify unopened flower, seal then come back to the next day. You really should select & isolate more than one male flower.

 some more male examples



Male Zucchini flower (closed good one for selection)

  

Male Zucchini (open)



Male Watermelon flower (open)

Some Side by side comparisons

Zucchini (female top/ male bottom)

Zucchini ideal for hand pollination selection flowers have not yet opened (female left/male right)

Cucumber  (female top/Male bottom)

Watermelons (male top / female Bottom)





Hubbard Squash flowers (female right/male left)

 

To make sure the pollen is mature. Touch the stamen with your finger and see if tiny yellow specks(the pollen) come off on your hand. Pull off the petals to expose the stamen which contains the pollen.



Using the stamen itself  gently rub the pollen onto the inside stigma of the female flower. Make sure to come in contact with all segments of the stigma.You really should try to use more than one male flower to get the right genetics.

Hand pollination is now complete!



Now to avoid any further insect pollination of the female flower you must prevent insects from getting in there. A fleece bag, pair of stockings, a peg or some masking tape lightly tied over the female flower will do.

 If pollination did not occur, the baby pumpkin below the female flower will shrivel and die.
I also recommend that you watch  this excellent demonstration http://youtu.be/yrZ-VCI4Edc



Watermelons and cucumbers are essentially the same process but a little more fiddly because of smaller flowers this is another excellent demonstration http;//youtu.be/q5yz4_mPSXM

While you re going I suggest that you read the following, its from an excellent French site and has great info about pumpkins. http://masdudiable.com/2011/03/12/pumpkins/





Monthly Natter - October

As I write this I look outdoors enviously as its beautiful day and all inspired by our meeting yesterday I want to get out in garden.
With spring finally here hopefully you have made a start on the summer veges in a warm spot or are planning what to put in next month. Don't bother planting anything out directly in beds this early otherwise they will just struggle. You can put in some root veg, maybe try snow peas or some Asian greens. We have lots of chard seeds (silverbeet) if you're will to give them a go and they are easy to grow too.

Our meeting at Val & Richard's place was terrific, luckily the weather was great too. I will post some info on her garden with some pics soon.
I hope you all received both the address update and newsletter. Apologies to those that didn't, I was away on holidays, so please let me know and I'll forward immediately.

If you haven't RSVP to our Rushworth garden visit please do i need numbers ASAP.

Finally some wisdom from Jackie French " give your local school or preschool a strawberry plant for each kid so they can wait and watch and pick and wonder"



Bye for now Carley

Spring news

So Spring has come around again, this year has flown by. There is plenty to share

GV Seed Saver News

The Green Living Fair will be hosted by Valhalla Wines again this year on Saturday 22nd October. Over 40 exhibitors, Information sessions, workshops, great food and entertainment and loads for the kids to do. For further information visit the Green and Sustainable Living website on http://www.greenliving.org.au/

Our next meetings September we will tag along with Violet Town to visit Derek's & Kayes along with Val & Richards, a great chance to catch up with some old friends. In October we will also travel to Rushworth for a couple of garden visits. and finally November we will hold an open Seed Savers workshop where we will cover some spring flowering/seed saving techniques.

Seed saving tips

Plants starting to go to seed, rocket, fennel, rocket, peas, broad beans, Asian greens (grown through winter), carrot & parsnip (grown through winter), & lettuce.





Snow peas and broad beans should selected for desirable traits ie tallest, most health looking, having many fruits or seeds – heavy yielding, early yield, and should be marked clearly SAVE FOR SEED do not pick. Generally the pods at the bottom are the better ones to save , so you can eat some of the ones at the top.

Lettuces that have been growing through winter will soon bolt as the weather continues to warm. If you are saving seed or want them to self sow, make sure only one variety goes to seed.  Either pull other out or cut the flower heads with the variety you don't want as soon as the flowers appear .



Lettuce flowers

lettuce flowers ready to collect (seed at end of fluff)

Carrot and parsnip that you may have left from last season will start putting on new growth then will send out a thicker flower stem. These will start to flower and you will need to give it some support as it grows.  


Any broccoli or Asian greens that bolt to seed (send up flower stems early) are not so desirable to save seeds from, break them off and wait until the last one flowers, that's the one to save seed from.


Seed Saver Network News
interested in pine nuts? an excellent summary can be found here http://www.seedsavers.net/seed-blog/eat-it-or-lose-it-pine-nuts
Jude & Michel have collated all their clips and videos and can be seen here www.youtube.com/user/seedsavers


Jobs in the garden
Time to sow all Summer veg like cucumber, tomatoes, pumpkin,melons, eggplant, chili, & peppers  indoors or in warm spot for sowing in garden 4- 6 weeks when frosts have past and soil temperatures are above 20oC. Plant a years supply of root vegetables now, beetroot, swedes, carrot & parsnips. Plant a lot of celery parsley and or spring onions, some more lettuces also add some cabbages, kale, and broccoli ,but make sure up drape with exclusion fabric or old net curtains to stop cabbage butterfly & aphids from infesting them.

Potatoes, Strawberries and Rhubarb,artichokes and  asparagus (we have seed so of this if you are willing to give it a go) all go in now.
Now is also a great time growing Asian greens. some more info including uses and nutritional info can be found here http://www.natremed.com.au/food-of-the-month/asian-greens.html

Try Horseradish

BOTANICAL NAME: Armoracia rusticana syn. A. lapathifolia

COMMON NAME: Horseradish

FAMILY: Brassicaceae syn. Cruciferae

ORIGIN: Eastern Europe

 

PLANT DESCRIPTION

A perennial to 1.5m high on a tapering, fleshy taproot to 60cm long and 5 cm thick, it has large basal leaves, 30-100 cm long, with toothed margins.

Leaves are unusual in that, two, quite different; leaf forms can appear on the same plant. Some are scalloped, wavy leaves, while others can be very deeply cut. The white flowers appear mid-summer to mid-autumn, flower stems rise higher than the leaves. Clusters of small, four-petalled, white flowers set at the stem terminals. Rarely, are seed viable

USES

Food; the fresh roots are used for flavouring meats, vegetables and pickles. They are also processed into sauce and vinegar. Young leaves have a pleasant flavour and can be added to salads or cooked. Roots can be brought indoors in winter and forced into producing white, tender, sweet leaves. In Germany, sliced roots are cooked like parsnips.

GROWING REQUIREMENTS

It tolerates damp soils and grows vigorously. It does best in temperate climates, to the point of becoming an 'edible weed' in some gardens. In warmer, more humid areas it can still be productive but is prone to attack by caterpillars in autumn

It should be planted in a permanent position and not disturbed as new plants will arise from any broken roots and it would quickly become invasive if cultivated.

Recommended Planting Time:  Sring Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 25°C.

Space plants: 50 cm apart

Harvest in 16-24 weeks. Some improvement in flavour if left till after frost Propagate by root division in spring or autumn

Horseradish is an extremely powerful stimulant to the body. Hot compounds are released when the root is cut, or by chewing the root, which activates an enzyme action. During the Middle Ages, the whole plant was valued as medicine and condiment. Horseradish was one of the great spring cleaning herbs to revitalise the body after winter.

PREPARING HORSERADISH

In larger roots, the core may be fibrous and bitter. Remove and discard the core, along with any green spots.

Horseradish is like the allium family -- the finer it is chopped or grated, the more pungent the flavor.

When grating horseradish, it is easiest to use a food processor. Cut the peeled root into cubes and pulse to the desired consistency. The fumes will be quite strong and can actually burn your nose and eyes. Be sure to open a window, remove the lid at arm's length, and turn your head away.

COOKING WITH HORSERADISH

When serving horseradish, do not use silver. Horseradish will tarnish silver. 

With its pungent aroma and heady flavour, horseradish is the perfect match for traditional roast beef, pork or rich oily fish. it adds extra zing to creamy mashed potato and can make an interesting addition to a bloody mary. Although the intact root has little aroma, the impact comes when it is cut or grated and the plant cells break down. The fresh grated root will lose its colour and pungency if not used immediately or mixed with vinegar, so its best to grate and add just before serving. its flavour also dissipates quickly once exposed to heat so if you want that bite, add it at the end of the cooking process

Preserved Horseradish - scrape or peel skin from 2-3 roots, chop into small pieces and place in food processor with a little water. process to a fine consistency ass 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, 1 tbsp sugar and 1/2 tsp salt & mix well. You can preserve this, simply  spoon the mixture into to small sterilized jars, seal with a lid, it will however loose its pungency after some time.

 

Roast beef accompaniment or as a sauce with beetroot, new potatoes or green salad.- combine grated horseradish, sour cream or cream, squeeze of lemon , dill and salt & pepper to taste.

With Fish - combine 1 tbsp grated horseradish, 1 grated apple & 1 cup mayonnaise. this is excellent with smoked salmon local smoked trout.

Beetroot & horseradish relish - Beetroot and horseradish have a natural affinity. Boil or bake 350g beetroot until tender and finely chop or grate. Add 200g grated horseradish, 75 ml white wine vinegar, 2 tbsp Castor sugar and mix well. serve with meat fish or as a sandwich spread

Crispy Potato Cakes with Horseradish - grate boiled and cooled potatoes and i grated onion and toss in flour . then Stir in 2 beaten eggs, 3 tbs grated horseradish, lemon zest, chives, salt, and pepper until well-combined. Spoon about 2 tbsp mixture in non stick pan & shallow fry and drain on paper towels

 Add 1 Tablespoon fresh grated horseradish to 1 cup applesauce for a piquant condiment to pork dishes

With Pesto - basically an ordinary green pesto with the addition of horseradish cream, lovely mixed through pastas

Peasants’ Right to Seeds: A Solution to the Food, Climate and Biodiversity Crise

Peasants’ Right to Seeds: A Solution to the Food, Climate and Biodiversity Crise

Seed Treaty meeting in Bali
Seed farmers from all over the world, members of La Via Campesina, a global peasants' movement, will participate in the Fourth Regular Session of the Governing Body of the International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture (GB4ITPGFRA). During a series of meetings, seminars and events, they will represent seed farmers from all over the world who are the backbone of food production and the main creators and defenders of biodiversity. Some of the dates include:

Field visit, 9 March (morning): A visit to traditional farmers who conserve local varieties in Balinese terrace fields (in Jati Luwi)
Press Conference, 10 March 2011, 11 am, Goodway Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali -"The Via Campesina Global Campaign on the Exchange of Peasant Seeds"
The Via Campesina Seed Fair, 11-15 March 2011, Westin Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali
The International Peoples Forum on Seeds, 12 March, Westin Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali (with 100 seed farmers from around Asia and other parts of the world).

This grass roots organisation representing millions of peasant farmers and landholders across the world endorses the importance to saving seeds. While for us this here in our comfortable western society the right to seed saving is  is not a life or death struggle, but for many farmers if they dont save their own or a diversity of seeds to withstand many seasonal conditions, their income, health and societies are affected. Food for thought ha? but what is on our front pages AFL sex scandals.........

Seed are culture and the storage of history. Seed are the first link to agriculture and food systems. Seeds are the ultimate symbol of Food Sovereignty - Dr Vandana Shiva

Considering that small and family farming, which represent most of the world's farmers, are best placed to: meet their dietary needs and those of populations, ensuring food security and sovereignty of countries, provide employment to rural populations and maintain economic life in rural areas, key to a balanced territorial development,produce with respect to the environment and to the conservation of natural resources for future generations;

Considering that recent massive land grabs targeting tens of millions of acres for the benefit of private interests or third states - whether for reasons of food, energy, mining, environment, tourism, speculation or geopolitics - violate human rights by depriving local, indigenous, peasants, pastoralists and fisher communities of their livelihoods, by restricting their access to natural resources or by removing their freedom to produce as they wish, and exacerbate the inequalities of women in access and control of land;

Summer News

Hopefully you have had a happy and enjoyable summer. The soil is wet, the tanks are full, the ground is still warm and the autumn period is upon us so quickly, it doesn't feel as if we have had a real summer. I think the garden knows this too as most veges have struggled or put up a late flowering effort, which in some cases will not set fruits in time before the frosts. I wont have melons this year, my eggplant have been few and far between. no Ceylon spinach (it really likes heat) and the prospects of luffa sponges this year don't look too good either.

Our Coming events

We are Looking for hosts & suggestions so please let me know if you are willing to host a meeting. or have any requests for workshops/visits.

Feb 27th - @ 658 Wyndham St Shepparton Propagating Day sharing of herbs and other woody shrubs / roots and plants, discussion about future of GV Seed Savers

March 27th - Seedy Sunday Summer Seeds Collection seed cleaning, recording, packing

April - Regional Seed Saver Annual Swap & get-together Albury date to be confirmed

Seed Savers News
Our seed bank desperately needs planting out we have a great collection but no-one is using it and the seed will become less viable.   I think we need to keep our group and seed bank moving forward so that we develop a resource for the Goulburn Valley in terms of locally adapted seed and a knowledge base.

If you want some seed and are unsure about propagating or successful seed saving please come along to our garden visits and meetings, everyone learns from one another; everyone gets lots of unusual seeds and cuttings this is where we share this knowledge. But if you cant make it along then contact myself and we can arrange a cuppa or garden visit.

At our Feb meeting i would like to discuss where we are heading some aims of our group and governance of the group. we have a chance to leave something for everyone here. these are the Seed Savers Networks aims but i want you to think about what aims The GV group should have

• To find, grow and distribute locally adapted seeds, particularly of vegetables and herbs as well as plants that are propagated by tubers, cuttings, rhizomes, bulbs, etc.,
• To adapt new varieties to local conditions.
• To promote the practice of seed saving and the importance of conserving diversity in our food crops, to schools for example,
• To support other LSNs by sharing knowledge, skills, seeds and planting material,

Latest from the Seed Savers Network

Concentration of Ownership of Seed. Since 1995 the speed of take overs of seed companies has increased astronomically....  read on

See film clips we have selected from over 250 that we have uploaded. Some show how to save seeds, some are on seeds for sale on markets, others are interviews with Third World women. www.youtube.com/user/seedsavers

Jobs in the Patch
 
Make the most of this next 3-4 weeks, this is planting time; it is the time to put in all the veg you want to eat for winter, from more carrots and silver beet to broccoli, celery, caulies. It is also the perfect time to put in trees, bushes, asparagus… almost anything in fact.

Other jobs

• Keep on look out for fruit fly destroy spoiled fruit at bottom of trees, and if you suspect damage put damaged fruit in plastic bag in freezer and contact DPI.
• Use seaweed fertiliser as a foliar spray to keep vegetables healthy.
• Keep an eye on citrus for scale problems, the first sign is usually the appearance of Black Sooty Mould, a fungus that feeds on the excretions of scale and aphids, spray with Natrasoap or white Oil.
• Control caterpillars with Dipel or Success. Exclusion nets when used early will keep the moths out and eliminate the need to spray.
• Thin apples and pears, Summer prune if you haven't already. Check for codling moth damage. Keep an eye out for Pear and Cherry Slug.



I also have several copies of seed savers manual for sale, and Jenny Lister has the Permaculture diary and calender available please email for details. gvseedsavers@bigpond.com