Spring news

So Spring has come around again, this year has flown by. There is plenty to share

GV Seed Saver News

The Green Living Fair will be hosted by Valhalla Wines again this year on Saturday 22nd October. Over 40 exhibitors, Information sessions, workshops, great food and entertainment and loads for the kids to do. For further information visit the Green and Sustainable Living website on http://www.greenliving.org.au/

Our next meetings September we will tag along with Violet Town to visit Derek's & Kayes along with Val & Richards, a great chance to catch up with some old friends. In October we will also travel to Rushworth for a couple of garden visits. and finally November we will hold an open Seed Savers workshop where we will cover some spring flowering/seed saving techniques.

Seed saving tips

Plants starting to go to seed, rocket, fennel, rocket, peas, broad beans, Asian greens (grown through winter), carrot & parsnip (grown through winter), & lettuce.





Snow peas and broad beans should selected for desirable traits ie tallest, most health looking, having many fruits or seeds – heavy yielding, early yield, and should be marked clearly SAVE FOR SEED do not pick. Generally the pods at the bottom are the better ones to save , so you can eat some of the ones at the top.

Lettuces that have been growing through winter will soon bolt as the weather continues to warm. If you are saving seed or want them to self sow, make sure only one variety goes to seed.  Either pull other out or cut the flower heads with the variety you don't want as soon as the flowers appear .



Lettuce flowers

lettuce flowers ready to collect (seed at end of fluff)

Carrot and parsnip that you may have left from last season will start putting on new growth then will send out a thicker flower stem. These will start to flower and you will need to give it some support as it grows.  


Any broccoli or Asian greens that bolt to seed (send up flower stems early) are not so desirable to save seeds from, break them off and wait until the last one flowers, that's the one to save seed from.


Seed Saver Network News
interested in pine nuts? an excellent summary can be found here http://www.seedsavers.net/seed-blog/eat-it-or-lose-it-pine-nuts
Jude & Michel have collated all their clips and videos and can be seen here www.youtube.com/user/seedsavers


Jobs in the garden
Time to sow all Summer veg like cucumber, tomatoes, pumpkin,melons, eggplant, chili, & peppers  indoors or in warm spot for sowing in garden 4- 6 weeks when frosts have past and soil temperatures are above 20oC. Plant a years supply of root vegetables now, beetroot, swedes, carrot & parsnips. Plant a lot of celery parsley and or spring onions, some more lettuces also add some cabbages, kale, and broccoli ,but make sure up drape with exclusion fabric or old net curtains to stop cabbage butterfly & aphids from infesting them.

Potatoes, Strawberries and Rhubarb,artichokes and  asparagus (we have seed so of this if you are willing to give it a go) all go in now.
Now is also a great time growing Asian greens. some more info including uses and nutritional info can be found here http://www.natremed.com.au/food-of-the-month/asian-greens.html

Try Horseradish

BOTANICAL NAME: Armoracia rusticana syn. A. lapathifolia

COMMON NAME: Horseradish

FAMILY: Brassicaceae syn. Cruciferae

ORIGIN: Eastern Europe

 

PLANT DESCRIPTION

A perennial to 1.5m high on a tapering, fleshy taproot to 60cm long and 5 cm thick, it has large basal leaves, 30-100 cm long, with toothed margins.

Leaves are unusual in that, two, quite different; leaf forms can appear on the same plant. Some are scalloped, wavy leaves, while others can be very deeply cut. The white flowers appear mid-summer to mid-autumn, flower stems rise higher than the leaves. Clusters of small, four-petalled, white flowers set at the stem terminals. Rarely, are seed viable

USES

Food; the fresh roots are used for flavouring meats, vegetables and pickles. They are also processed into sauce and vinegar. Young leaves have a pleasant flavour and can be added to salads or cooked. Roots can be brought indoors in winter and forced into producing white, tender, sweet leaves. In Germany, sliced roots are cooked like parsnips.

GROWING REQUIREMENTS

It tolerates damp soils and grows vigorously. It does best in temperate climates, to the point of becoming an 'edible weed' in some gardens. In warmer, more humid areas it can still be productive but is prone to attack by caterpillars in autumn

It should be planted in a permanent position and not disturbed as new plants will arise from any broken roots and it would quickly become invasive if cultivated.

Recommended Planting Time:  Sring Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 25°C.

Space plants: 50 cm apart

Harvest in 16-24 weeks. Some improvement in flavour if left till after frost Propagate by root division in spring or autumn

Horseradish is an extremely powerful stimulant to the body. Hot compounds are released when the root is cut, or by chewing the root, which activates an enzyme action. During the Middle Ages, the whole plant was valued as medicine and condiment. Horseradish was one of the great spring cleaning herbs to revitalise the body after winter.

PREPARING HORSERADISH

In larger roots, the core may be fibrous and bitter. Remove and discard the core, along with any green spots.

Horseradish is like the allium family -- the finer it is chopped or grated, the more pungent the flavor.

When grating horseradish, it is easiest to use a food processor. Cut the peeled root into cubes and pulse to the desired consistency. The fumes will be quite strong and can actually burn your nose and eyes. Be sure to open a window, remove the lid at arm's length, and turn your head away.

COOKING WITH HORSERADISH

When serving horseradish, do not use silver. Horseradish will tarnish silver. 

With its pungent aroma and heady flavour, horseradish is the perfect match for traditional roast beef, pork or rich oily fish. it adds extra zing to creamy mashed potato and can make an interesting addition to a bloody mary. Although the intact root has little aroma, the impact comes when it is cut or grated and the plant cells break down. The fresh grated root will lose its colour and pungency if not used immediately or mixed with vinegar, so its best to grate and add just before serving. its flavour also dissipates quickly once exposed to heat so if you want that bite, add it at the end of the cooking process

Preserved Horseradish - scrape or peel skin from 2-3 roots, chop into small pieces and place in food processor with a little water. process to a fine consistency ass 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, 1 tbsp sugar and 1/2 tsp salt & mix well. You can preserve this, simply  spoon the mixture into to small sterilized jars, seal with a lid, it will however loose its pungency after some time.

 

Roast beef accompaniment or as a sauce with beetroot, new potatoes or green salad.- combine grated horseradish, sour cream or cream, squeeze of lemon , dill and salt & pepper to taste.

With Fish - combine 1 tbsp grated horseradish, 1 grated apple & 1 cup mayonnaise. this is excellent with smoked salmon local smoked trout.

Beetroot & horseradish relish - Beetroot and horseradish have a natural affinity. Boil or bake 350g beetroot until tender and finely chop or grate. Add 200g grated horseradish, 75 ml white wine vinegar, 2 tbsp Castor sugar and mix well. serve with meat fish or as a sandwich spread

Crispy Potato Cakes with Horseradish - grate boiled and cooled potatoes and i grated onion and toss in flour . then Stir in 2 beaten eggs, 3 tbs grated horseradish, lemon zest, chives, salt, and pepper until well-combined. Spoon about 2 tbsp mixture in non stick pan & shallow fry and drain on paper towels

 Add 1 Tablespoon fresh grated horseradish to 1 cup applesauce for a piquant condiment to pork dishes

With Pesto - basically an ordinary green pesto with the addition of horseradish cream, lovely mixed through pastas

Peasants’ Right to Seeds: A Solution to the Food, Climate and Biodiversity Crise

Peasants’ Right to Seeds: A Solution to the Food, Climate and Biodiversity Crise

Seed Treaty meeting in Bali
Seed farmers from all over the world, members of La Via Campesina, a global peasants' movement, will participate in the Fourth Regular Session of the Governing Body of the International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture (GB4ITPGFRA). During a series of meetings, seminars and events, they will represent seed farmers from all over the world who are the backbone of food production and the main creators and defenders of biodiversity. Some of the dates include:

Field visit, 9 March (morning): A visit to traditional farmers who conserve local varieties in Balinese terrace fields (in Jati Luwi)
Press Conference, 10 March 2011, 11 am, Goodway Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali -"The Via Campesina Global Campaign on the Exchange of Peasant Seeds"
The Via Campesina Seed Fair, 11-15 March 2011, Westin Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali
The International Peoples Forum on Seeds, 12 March, Westin Hotel, Nusa Dua, Bali (with 100 seed farmers from around Asia and other parts of the world).

This grass roots organisation representing millions of peasant farmers and landholders across the world endorses the importance to saving seeds. While for us this here in our comfortable western society the right to seed saving is  is not a life or death struggle, but for many farmers if they dont save their own or a diversity of seeds to withstand many seasonal conditions, their income, health and societies are affected. Food for thought ha? but what is on our front pages AFL sex scandals.........

Seed are culture and the storage of history. Seed are the first link to agriculture and food systems. Seeds are the ultimate symbol of Food Sovereignty - Dr Vandana Shiva

Considering that small and family farming, which represent most of the world's farmers, are best placed to: meet their dietary needs and those of populations, ensuring food security and sovereignty of countries, provide employment to rural populations and maintain economic life in rural areas, key to a balanced territorial development,produce with respect to the environment and to the conservation of natural resources for future generations;

Considering that recent massive land grabs targeting tens of millions of acres for the benefit of private interests or third states - whether for reasons of food, energy, mining, environment, tourism, speculation or geopolitics - violate human rights by depriving local, indigenous, peasants, pastoralists and fisher communities of their livelihoods, by restricting their access to natural resources or by removing their freedom to produce as they wish, and exacerbate the inequalities of women in access and control of land;

Summer News

Hopefully you have had a happy and enjoyable summer. The soil is wet, the tanks are full, the ground is still warm and the autumn period is upon us so quickly, it doesn't feel as if we have had a real summer. I think the garden knows this too as most veges have struggled or put up a late flowering effort, which in some cases will not set fruits in time before the frosts. I wont have melons this year, my eggplant have been few and far between. no Ceylon spinach (it really likes heat) and the prospects of luffa sponges this year don't look too good either.

Our Coming events

We are Looking for hosts & suggestions so please let me know if you are willing to host a meeting. or have any requests for workshops/visits.

Feb 27th - @ 658 Wyndham St Shepparton Propagating Day sharing of herbs and other woody shrubs / roots and plants, discussion about future of GV Seed Savers

March 27th - Seedy Sunday Summer Seeds Collection seed cleaning, recording, packing

April - Regional Seed Saver Annual Swap & get-together Albury date to be confirmed

Seed Savers News
Our seed bank desperately needs planting out we have a great collection but no-one is using it and the seed will become less viable.   I think we need to keep our group and seed bank moving forward so that we develop a resource for the Goulburn Valley in terms of locally adapted seed and a knowledge base.

If you want some seed and are unsure about propagating or successful seed saving please come along to our garden visits and meetings, everyone learns from one another; everyone gets lots of unusual seeds and cuttings this is where we share this knowledge. But if you cant make it along then contact myself and we can arrange a cuppa or garden visit.

At our Feb meeting i would like to discuss where we are heading some aims of our group and governance of the group. we have a chance to leave something for everyone here. these are the Seed Savers Networks aims but i want you to think about what aims The GV group should have

• To find, grow and distribute locally adapted seeds, particularly of vegetables and herbs as well as plants that are propagated by tubers, cuttings, rhizomes, bulbs, etc.,
• To adapt new varieties to local conditions.
• To promote the practice of seed saving and the importance of conserving diversity in our food crops, to schools for example,
• To support other LSNs by sharing knowledge, skills, seeds and planting material,

Latest from the Seed Savers Network

Concentration of Ownership of Seed. Since 1995 the speed of take overs of seed companies has increased astronomically....  read on

See film clips we have selected from over 250 that we have uploaded. Some show how to save seeds, some are on seeds for sale on markets, others are interviews with Third World women. www.youtube.com/user/seedsavers

Jobs in the Patch
 
Make the most of this next 3-4 weeks, this is planting time; it is the time to put in all the veg you want to eat for winter, from more carrots and silver beet to broccoli, celery, caulies. It is also the perfect time to put in trees, bushes, asparagus… almost anything in fact.

Other jobs

• Keep on look out for fruit fly destroy spoiled fruit at bottom of trees, and if you suspect damage put damaged fruit in plastic bag in freezer and contact DPI.
• Use seaweed fertiliser as a foliar spray to keep vegetables healthy.
• Keep an eye on citrus for scale problems, the first sign is usually the appearance of Black Sooty Mould, a fungus that feeds on the excretions of scale and aphids, spray with Natrasoap or white Oil.
• Control caterpillars with Dipel or Success. Exclusion nets when used early will keep the moths out and eliminate the need to spray.
• Thin apples and pears, Summer prune if you haven't already. Check for codling moth damage. Keep an eye out for Pear and Cherry Slug.



I also have several copies of seed savers manual for sale, and Jenny Lister has the Permaculture diary and calender available please email for details. gvseedsavers@bigpond.com



Ornamental Gardens and vegetables

You do not have to be confined to growing vegetables exclusively in a patch out the back. Why not locate vegetables where they will be happiest, even if it’s among the bearded iris or roses. Once you are free of the mindset that dictates this you will soon realise the fabulous ornamental value of some vegetables and fruits. It also opens up new spaces, front back and side of houses. Those places may be the sunniest, or best drained. Plan vegetable plantings to surround a building or line a path, down along the driveway, against the fences or even out on the naturestrip.

Chard used as mass planting bedding plant

Lettuces ; they prefer a bit of shade in mid-summer and bolt quickly once summer arrives if left in the spring bed. I move them to my front garden under the shade of our big tree, the purple and frilly foliage contrasts beautifully with some of my bold perennials, this makes much more sense than buying punnets of bedding annuals.

Leeks at St Erth

Onions and leeks have strappy foliage and their flower spikes are a dramatic addition to any garden they also repel aphids. One of the better examples of this was at our recent visit to St Erth, the Leek flower spikes floated above other plants.  Imagine them amonst purple flax or cordylines, they could easily be blended in with other bold plantings in rows, back of borders or part of a perennial border.

 

onions or leek flowers all in a row


 








I’ve discovered that eggplant grows vigorously well with roses, requiring similar soil, water and fertilise they have beautiful leaves and fruit that mix well in a sea of flowers.

 By growing vegetables in unexpected spots it opens up the vegetable garden for plants that take up room. Zucchinis and melons sometimes grow into monsters but growing them with Nasturtiums, always a favorite edible flower, they will sprawl happily benefiting from the cooling growing mulch and the nasturtiums secrete a mustard oil, which many insects find attractive and will seek out rather than eating leaves of nearby veges and the flowers repel aphids and the cucumber beetle.



Other fruits and vegetables can double as ornamental, too. Blueberries might be great as a hedge you’ve been intending to plant against the garden wall. Strawberries make a fine ground cover . Cabbages, kale and  and Broccoli are bold foliage plants. Carrots, and parsnips are the same family as Queens Anne lace and send up a beautiful flower spike.



Chilies and capsicums have bright colourful fruit I have sometimes used them as annual container display in the middle of my Christmas table. Planted as a border with garlic chives as the pic to the left shows they not only look great but also make strong insect repellent barrier and ingredients for a spray. 

CERES Workshop calendar for 2011

Summer fruit tree pruning Saturday 5th February

The technique of summer pruning fruit trees will be taught by Justin in this one day hands-on workshop.Learn how to use summer pruning as part of your annual maintenance to get the very best from your fruit trees.
COST: $125/ CERES member $115

Bushfoods workshop Saturday 26th February
An inspiring and informative workshop spent immersed in the taste, texture
and tantalizing variety of our native food plants.
COST: $125/ CERES member $115

Organic Vegetable gardening Sat. 19th March and Sat. 26th March
This extensive workshop is designed for the vegetable gardener who wants to know the whole story.
The workshop is a mix of classroom presentations and practical exercises.
COST: $190/ CERES member $180

2 day fruit tree workshop Sat. 21st May and Sat. 28th May

Discover how to grow a variety of fruit and nut trees in your backyard and have
all your questions answered in this informative workshop.
COST: $190/ CERES member $180

2 day fruit tree workshop Sat. 30th July and Sat. 6th August
Discover how to grow a variety of fruit and nut trees in your backyard and have
all your questions answered in this informative workshop.
COST: $190/ CERES member $180

Berry fruit workshop Saturday 20th August
Learn about the wide range of berry fruits that can be grown in Victorian gardens and how
to cultivate them for great yields and great flavour. This workshop will cover selection, planting,
fertilising, pruning and trelising (If required) of a range of berry fruit.
COST: $125/ CERES member $115

Organic Vegetable gardening Sat. 15th October and Sat. 22nd October
This extensive workshop is designed for the vegetable gardener who wants to know the whole story.
The workshop is a mix of classroom presentations and practical exercises.
COST: $190/ CERES member $180

Bushfood workshop Saturday 12th November
An inspiring and informative workshop spent immersed in the taste, texture
and tantalizing variety of our native food plants.
COST: $125/ CERES member $115
For more information on any of these workshops, or to book in, contact CERES Permaculture & Bushfood Nursery Ph. 93890111

Email: nursery@ceres.org.au

Garden of St Erth Visit

 You sure did miss out on a great day,

although the wather was a bit wet on the way over, we were treated to very green and lush garden, full of inspiration.

What I knowabout tomatoes

Black Russian

Not that I'm an expert but this is a rough guide to how i grow my tomatoes and what i have found to work. i would really like to open a discussion and post the various suggestions or questions.



Tomatoes need warm soil and warm weather to thrive and ward off diseases. It seems to me that every year Bunning’s and other big garden suppliers sell their tomatoes sooner and sooner, knowing full well that the customer will probably be back for more. Depending on how the season is I don’t plant my tomatoes in the ground until after Melbourne cup, and well after if we are having a frosty spring.

Tigerella & Tatura Dwarf

Many times you can put in a tomato plant a good month after your too-early one, and find the later-planted seedling quickly catching up and surpassing the other deprived, stunted one you nursed along during a too-cold spring. Another good time to plant your second successive crop is on Boxing Day or when first lot flowers.

Tomatoes need good nutrition. To get big fat healthy tomatoes,  First dig a deep hole and at the bottom of that add a fish head. This adds both nitrogen and calcium as it decomposes over time. I then add two or three crushed chicken eggshells; The value of eggshells is that it's a cheap, organic method of adding calcium to your soil. Sulphate of potash is next which is high in phosphorus, which aids in both root formation and blossom production. The more flowers you get, the more fruit you get, and it adds to the flavour.


I also put two handfuls of a good dry, all-purpose organic fertilizer in the bottom of the hole. "All-purpose" means that all three macro nutrients are represented in similar quantities. The macro nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, making sure it is organically approved and not just called organic approved. Check here or here

A tablespoon of worm castings goes in and two regular aspirin tablets a few inches into the soil about 6 or so inches away from your planted tomato seedling. Aspirin contains salicylic acid, which has been shown to boost the immune system of tomatoes, making them more disease resistant. 

Tomato plants want to be planted deep, so get at least two thirds of that stem under the ground.  This is because all of those tiny fuzzy hairs sticking out of the stem turn into roots once buried.  The more roots there are, the better able the plant is able to uptake more nutrients.  You can either dig a deep hole, or use the “trench” method, which works particularly well with long seedlings.  Dig a narrow trench, about four or five inches deep, then lay the plant in sideways, bending the top up and out of the end of the trench.  Make sure you water all along the length of the trench for a while, in order to get the root ball wet.

Tomatoes don't like to be crowded. Tomato plants also need a free flow of air around them to keep down foliar diseases, and crowding them will inhibit airflow around 90cm apart. allow them to grow up naturally using good vertical and horizontal supports. i use 2mt high cylindrical cages. Simply cut lengths of large square chicken wire or weld mesh , attach them into a cylinder using either narrow gauge wire, or bend back and twist the cut ends together to secure. These cylindrical cages can then be placed over your plant (one per cage). Drive a star picket or bamboo well into the ground next to the cage, and then tie the cage to the picket at several intervals. As the tomato plant starts to grow out of the cage, gently push back the growing tips inside the cylinder, training the plant to grow up inside the cage.

Feeding your tomatoes Use an organic fertiliserer every three weeks (every week if growing in a pot). I particularly like using worm casting tea. It's simple to make: throw a handful of pure worm castings and some comfrey leaves into a 20lt bucket of water.(dairy bucket) Let "steep" for two -three days.To use get yourself a 7.5lt sprayer  add one and a half regular aspirin in the bottom of diluted worm casting tea dilute it up to four times with water then strain through cheesecloth. Spray this elixir once a week, but at least once every two weeks on the leaves in the morning. It tends to settle to the bottom of the bucket, so stir it up before watering.

Don’t over or Under Water .Most people water their tomatoes too much. It makes for watery tasting tomatoes, more diseases, and less fruit. The only time that a tomato needs to be watered every day, is if it's in a pot and the weather is consistently in the high 30's and in direct sun.

You should observe your plants every day and see how they are doing with moisture. If the ground is wet, they don't need watering again for a while. If the plant is wilting, it may not be water deprived; it just may be hot for a few hours in high heat and will perk back up in the cool of the evening. Also some diseases cause the plant to wilt, and no amount of watering will cure that.

Worm Tower

This I came across from a permaculture site and I just had to share it with you all. I love easy solutions and this in situ worm farm is as good as it gets. make sure you check out the comments at the bottom, they explain it even further

how-to-make-a-worm-tower/

Seed Saving Tips and Tricks Part 1

RECORDING YOUR COLLECTED SEED

It is important to record the details about the seed you have collected because:
• you may forget why you saved it by the time you want to plant it
• you may want to give it to someone
• you may want to compare it with another variety

How to record your collected seed at home

• Keep a notebook or old diary with the dates.
• Write down the following details on the date you picked the seed:
  - Name of vegetable
  - Special qualities of vegetable e.g. disease resistant, long yielding
  - Dates of collection
  - If there were special conditions at the time it was growing e.g. very dry
• If you sent some to your seedbank send these details on the packet
  Address of sender
  Name of seed and special type
  Details of the seed – e.g. can grow in dry season
  Date of collection
  On the envelope you have placed the seed in, write the same details.

From Michel and Jude Fanton, The Seed Savers’ Handbook, Byron Bay, Australia, 1993

Italian Torpedo or Italian Red Torpedo Onion

I came across this while checking one of my regular blog reads and i know these onions have been shared around by the Violet town group, and Derek is growing them at the moment, very similar results here Do check it out and give it a go maybe planting late summer.

http://masdudiable.com/2010/11/02/onion-rouge-de-florence/

Monthly Natter - November

Now is the time to take stock of what y0ou have planted and what you need to, successive plantings of crops will stop the glut. Carrots parsnips, celery, corn, and lettuce corn and lettuce every three weeks beans peas can be timed whenever the first plantings begin to flower,  and another lot of zucchini, tomatoes and cucumbers in December. In the seed garden broad beans and peas will be fruiting, don't be tempted to take the best looking pods leave these for seed. generally the first pods are the best to save. if they are affected by chocolate spot, or other spotty fungal disease try and save pods from plants that are least affected.

These are my purple carrots setting flowers, they are the prettiest flower, and could be part of any cut flower collection. A
Foliar feed with liquid manure, worm tea or seasol. A great recipe can be found on ABC gardening http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1805268.htm
or http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s2947565.htm

This week in my garden

Beans General McClay & Purple King
Basil Purple & Genovese
Onion - long keeping Stuttgart
More Peas Telephone & Sugar Snap
Carrot, baby round
Beetroot Choggia & Golden
Beneficial creature attracting Flower mix - Cosmos, queens Anne lace, phacelia, coriander, red clover, cosmos, dill, caraway, marigolds, buckwheat and sweet Alice.
Planting out  seedlings

Cucumber Lemon & Richmond River
Spinach Ceylon
Tomato Yellow Pear
Watermelon Moon and Stars
Zucchini Lebanese - Rondo De nice

CERES November/December Workshops

In the Nursery Workshops
Australian Bush foods
With Justin Calverley
Saturday 6 November 2010 10.00AM—3.30PM
$125/$115 CERES member/concession

In the Kitchen Workshops
Gluten Free Cooking
With Gad Assayag
Sunday 7 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM

$88/$77 CERES member/concession
Preserves and Jams
With 7 Stars Food Project
Sunday 14 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Fresh Sausages
With Sausages Made Simple
Wednesday 17 November 2010 6.30PM—9.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Turkish Cooking
With the 7 Stars Food Project
Sunday 21 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Fetta Cheese Making
With Carole Willman
Sunday 28 November 2010 10.00AM—4.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Sour Dough Bread Baking
With Jao Blair
Sunday 5 December 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$120/$110 CERES member/concession

In the Garden Workshops
Seed Saving and Propagation
With Matt Daniele
Saturday 6 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession


Beekeeping With Lyndon Fenlon
Sunday 7 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Understanding Soils
With Annie Raiser-Rowland
Sunday 14 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Kitchen Gardens for Schools and the Community
With Justin Calverley
Saturday 20 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Potted Gardening With Justin Calverley
Saturday 27 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Chook Care With Louise Kay
Sunday 28 November 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Waterwsie Gardening With Justin Calverley
Saturday 4 December 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Composting and Worms With Justin Calverley
Saturday 11 December 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Beekeeping With Lyndon Fenlon
Sunday 12 December 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM
$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Backyard MedicineWith Melissa Collins
Sunday 12 December 2010 1.30PM—4.30PM
$66/$55 CERES member/concession

For further information contact Luisa Brown, Training Coordinator on 9387 2609 or luisa@ceres.org

For bookings contact: CERES Visitor Centre on 9387 2609.

Valhalla Wines Green Living Fair

The Green Living Fair showcased ways of living sustainably – on the land, in your home and with our food - including demonstrations, presentation and stalls on how individuals can make a difference.

Had a fantastic day thanks to Joanne Diver for inviting me along and I urge you all to check out the faboulous winery and get along to the festival next year

The Fair was hosted by Valhalla Wines, Wahgunyah - a straw-bale built winery using green power, worm-composting toilets and recycled waste water, and Fantastic wines!
http://valhallawines.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=1&Itemid=52

CERES garden workshops in October

Sour Dough Bread Baking With Jao BlairSunday 3 October 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM$120/$110 CERES member/concession

Frugavore With Arabella ForgeSunday 10 October 2010 10.00AM—2.00PM$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Sprouts and Seeds With Carolina CordeiroSunday 17 October 2010 10.00AM—12.00PM$44/$33 CERES member/concession

Cured Sausages With Sausages Made Simple Wednesday 20 October 2010 6.30PM -9.00PM$120/$110 CERES member/concession

Camembert Cheesemaking With Carole WillmanSunday 24 October 2010 10.00AM—4.00PM$150/$130 CERES member/concession

Edible Weeds With Annie Raiser-RowlandSunday 10 October 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Introduction to Backyard Aquaponics With Dr Wilson Lennard and Steve MushinSaturday 9 October 2010 10.00AM—4.00PM$150/$130 CERES member/concession

Advanced Aquaponics Design With Dr Wilson Lennard and Steve MushinSaturday/Sunday 23 and 24 October 2010 10.00AM—4.00PM$280/$260 CERES member/concession

Introduction to Permaculture With Matt DanieleSaturday/Sunday 23 and 24 October 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM$150/$140 CERES member/concessionIn the Home Workshops

Sustainability - Living your choices (Part 2)With Ian CullbardSaturday 2 October 2010 1.30PM—3.30PM$45/$35 CERES member/concession
Buying Green With Gavin HughesSaturday 9 October 2010 1.30PM—3.30PM$35/$25 CERES member/concession
Sustainable Building and Renovations With Paul AdamsSaturday 30 October 2010 1.30PM—3.30PM$35/$25 CERES member/concession

Getting Creative Workshops
Soapmaking for BeginnersWith Joyce ReedSunday 24 October 2010 10.00AM—3.00PM$88/$77 CERES member/concession

Regional Seed Savers Day Roundup

Last Month we gathered at Violet Town for our first Regional Seed Savers Meeting. those that could make it were entertained by Jude and Michel Fanton from Seed Savers Network, and then we moved on to Murrnong after lunch for practical seed saving workshops in Dave Arnold’s vegie garden.

It was so nice to see so many people coming together and sharing ideas and learning new ones, I think it is integral to the survival of LSN's to gather resources and ideas from our region, and although we may differ in our structures our strength is that as a group we can then go back and pass on information and planting materials to our local groups.

I'm going to use one of the feedback responses i received to sum up our day because it sums it up so well.

Hi Carley,

We were both so inspired by the day. The setting for both sessions was perfect.
I was so impressed with the school/community garden – it is amazing what can be done in a small area and how much children can benefit from hands on experience at an early age. That is something that will stay with them all their lives. I wonder how many of those children have gone home and convinced their parents to start a vegetable garden as well. I believe Bunnings here in Shepparton is about to help provide information and assistance to schools in the area to get a similar thing happening here.

The film was also inspirational. To see so many indigenous people in their various countries, and how they grow their vegetables, and cope with the rape and pillage of their native lands by money hungry multi nationals destroying their crops to plant more lucrative ones, was certainly an eye-opener.

There is no doubt our world is in a very sorry state, and hearing today’s news about the tonnes of toxic vegetables being exported from China, some of which are destined for our supermarkets, means that the time for growing our own healthy vegetables is now not only sensible but imperative.

Catering for the morning and afternoon teas was superb, the food was fantastic and there was certainly plenty of it, and a wonderful variety to suit all palates, the team of workers are to be congratulated.

What a wonderful opportunity it was to participate in the four sessions during the afternoon. Our host was so knowledgeable and only too happy to share his experiences with us enthusiastically. He is doing an incredible job on that property. I found each of the segments really interesting and all the way home we discussed ways in which we could incorporate what we learnt into improving our own garden.

It was wonderful to have the trading stall there and I was fortunate to pick up some garlic, cos lettuce and spinach seedlings as well as a couple of types of sunchokes. We were able to contribute a lemon scented geranium, 3 peach trees and a fig tree to the stall, which I was pleased to see have all found new homes. I hope one of the peach trees is going to be planted in the school garden. I have bottled over 60 jars of peaches from the parent plant this year.

The variety of packets of seeds was amazing, I purchased quite a lot and even garnered a few from the seed saving segment as well, and you will be pleased to know that every day since then we have renovated another segment of our garden. ..............Thanks again for a great Sunday. Val (Val Hutchinson)

Some other feed back

" haven’t stopped talking about it to all my work mates ..... I am a true convert and will never buy packaged seed again."

" had planted some Yates seeds as they were donated but now I feel so inspired to use seed savers supplies for so many reasons"

"Especially loved your and terry's practical demosntration of saving seeds and walks around gardens.."
http://www.youtube.com/seedsavers#p/u/15/el0QZ27HARI (see it here)

"The variety of packets of seeds was amazing, I purchased quite a lot and even garnered a few from the seed saving segment as well, and you will be pleased to know that every day since then we have renovated another segment of our garden"

Dear Carley and Terry
We had a lovely time last Sunday! Thank you for organising it so well. I think it was really successful all round and the participants seemed very happy....
Thank you again for the wonderful welcome and consummate organising!
Best wishes, Jude and Michel

BROAD BEAN

Published on Seed Savers Network (http://www.seedsavers.net)

Broad beans are a hardy bush. They are also called Horse beans, and in northern Africa, where a smaller version is common, Tick beans.

Plant Names Botanical Family: LEGUMINOSAE
Common Name: BROAD BEAN
Genus: Vicia
Species: fava

Origins: Broad beans have been cultivated since prehistoric times in Europe. They were unearthed in the ancient city of Troy and found in Egyptian tombs and with Bronze Age artefact's in Switzerland. Their exact origin has therefore been hard to determine. It is recorded that the Romans used them as voting tokens and that they reached China by the first century AD. Before the explorers brought the common bean back from the Americas, the only bean that Europeans and Middle Easterners knew was the broad bean. Folk (or primitive) varieties grow in the Sahel, the southern part of the Sahara Desert, in poor agricultural lands.

Plant Description: Broad beans are a hardy bush. They are also called Horse beans, and in
northern Africa, where a smaller version is common, Tick beans.

Variety Notes: The Gene flow journal (1989) mentions that cultivars collected in Sicily, Portugal, and Cyprus show a great diversity of type and landrace. Wide variation was evident in respect of the size and shape of the grains as well as the earliness of the crop.

• For colder areas, there are the long-podded types with up to eight beans in a pod. They are hardy and are ready for planting from early through to late autumn. Examples are Early Long Pod, Polar and Acquadulce.


• Longfellow produces up to ten beans in a pod. Red Epicure is grown for its chestnut flavour and colour and is hardy and heavy cropping.


• The Windsor or Broad-Pod beans will not survive winter in frosty areas but will die back and shoot from the roots in spring. Their pods have up to five beans in them and they have a pronounced flavour.


• The dry seeds of Green Windsor are green and hold their colour when cooked.


• Scarlet Cambridge has a deep burgundy-coloured bean.


• The Sutton is a much-branching bush with white-seeded pods that mature early.


• Dwarf broad beans are useful for windy areas: Cole's Early Dwarf is one of the many good English types and bears all its pods touching the ground.

Cultivation: Broad beans respond well to the addition of compost and moderate soil moisture. May to July is the best time for planting in most areas. Prune the tops when the bushes are half-grown to encourage branching and try these as a salad green or spinach. The beans are best planted in double rows or blocks because then they support each other. In New Zealand, many experienced gardeners often surround their double rows of long pod types with stakes, fix a rigid rail on top and tie strings around. It makes harvesting them easier, considering each plant might have five stalks which often fall over each other. Broad beans can be cut back to the ground after a sub-tropical winter and can be expected to shoot again.

Seed saving notes: Broad beans are partly self-pollinated and partly cross-pollinated. Several hundred metres is a fair isolation distance to ensure purity if you happen to be growing more than one variety. The first pods to form are best for seeds. They are to be found at the base and are larger than subsequent pods. Allow the pods to dry on the bush and choose those from the most vigorous individual plants. Such refined steps cannot be taken on a large scale where a whole field is combine-harvested and threshed.
Shell out the beans and dry on a rack until a bite on the seed will produce only a little mark. Thresh and store in a loose knit bag. The bean seeds will not need any winnowing.
Seed storage:
Seed can last for up to ten years but only if kept in conditions with low humidity and constant

and to cooking Broad Beans...

one of my favorites is a salad recipe that goes just as well on bruchetta or thick sourdough, or hollow out a batard and fill with salad to take on a picnic/lunch

Ingredients (serves 4)
375g (2 1/2 cups) shelled fresh broad beans

100g thinly sliced mild pancetta, coarsely chopped
80g baby rocket leaves
1 red onion, halved, thinly sliced
16 fresh basil leaves, torn
2 tbs red wine vinegar
2 tsp olive oil
1 tsp wholegrain mustard
1 garlic clove, crushed
Pinch of salt
60g reduced-fat feta, crumbled

Method
Cook the broad beans in a medium saucepan of salted boiling water for 8 minutes or until tender. Drain. Refresh under cold running water. Remove skins and place in a large serving bowl.
Heat a small non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Add pancetta and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes or until crisp. Remove from heat.
Add the pancetta, rocket, onion and basil to the broad beans and gently toss until combined.
Whisk together the vinegar, oil, mustard and garlic in a jug. Taste and season with salt. Drizzle over broad bean mixture and gently toss to coat.
Sprinkle feta over broad bean salad and serve immediately.
Notes
You will need 1kg of unshelled fresh broad beans for this recipe.

May Monthly Natter

Today we travelled to Beechworth to visit Charlie & Faye Robinsons property. Here Charlie and Faye are creating an expansive food sustainable system, with strong design and aesthetics. A lot of work has gone into the design and infrastructure of the 5 ha property, which will be one of its strongest points in the future. Shaded walkways, apple and citrus walks, raised no dig garden beds and beautiful crafted brickwork were highlights of the day along with Faye and Charlie’s hospitality.

Their vegetable patch which could sustain the entire neighbourhood was built up waist level using a double course of bricks. This not only raises it up to an easy height but also creates a thick insulation.

A concrete water tank had been converted into a storage pantry where cans of fruit, sauces and preserves stay a constant temperature.

Charlie has even built an underground cellar which will store more perishable and fresh food items, using the cooling properties of the surrounding earth.

We sampled a delicious Moon and Stars Watermelon, which of course we saved some seeds from. Finally we travelled home through the very scenic Millawa , Beechworth regions, Big thanks to Violet Town Group who organised trip.

Our next meeting will be at Mike Schulz’s in Toolamba on 30th May, 1pm start.
Mike ran a research project on saltbush a few years ago and has maintained an interest, and has many different varieties to see. Bring a plate to share and own mug. Directions: From Mooroopna take the Murchison road. Cross the railway line north of Toolamba. Mikes drive is immediately on the left. Look out for the goat and stone wall.

Also Derek has 4 Carob trees emerging from the ss workshop - so happy to give 3 of these to a good home.

We have compiled our current list of seeds which I will distribute later this week, please look over and try a few different varieties, also look for something that you know well and grow it on for us to return some seeds.

We need to increase the quantity of seed and also distribute the seeds we have to everyone. At the moment we surviving off seeds saved from just a couple of people, and the seeds are not being used, they are sitting in the bank growing old, and this won’t sustain us for very long. I urge you to try saving just one variety, choose something off the list and give it a go I myself started with some easy things and letting a couple of these go to seed by themselves is really quite easy. When it comes time to selecting, collecting or cleaning seeds and you need some guidance I’m always available for a advice or even a visit.

Easy Seeds
Basil
Beans
Broad Beans
Coriander
Dill
Garlic Chives
Lettuce
Marigold
Nasturtium
Pea
Tomato
Capsicum (don’t grow Chilli in the same year you wish to save)
Chilli (don’t grow Capsicums in the same year you wish to save)

With all these seeds if you are worried they might cross with something just grow the one variety. For example grow only one type of lettuce in that season or only let one variety go on to flower.

Finally this is going to be a wet season, make the most of it incorporate lots of compost into your soil grow green manures and mustard (good for soil nemotodes).
Celery - it loves a liquid feed, and remember it’s impossible to over water
Kale can withstand the most intense cold. In fact the best kale of all is picked after a frost Broad Beans should now be sown and growing on. They are another plant that can stand winter cold. Give them a little sulphate of potash. It will toughen up the leaves, induce early flowering and that will give a better crop. Spinach needs perfect drainage so if you’re planting these out build up little ridges and plant the seeds/seedlings on top of that.

Happy Growing Carley