Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Spring Seed Saving

Just though I would share with you a few of the vegetables that are going to seed in my garden,
Borage, this will come up everywhere, excellent for attracting bees and providing potassium.

Rocket flowers, I will shake these inbetween my beds and around my fruit beds to encourage seeds to sprout in new spots.

Rocket seed pods starting to form, these plants were producing all through winter, left for another 4 weeks they should be sending seeds all over the place.

Dill, starting to flower. As I'm not growing any fennel at moment I should get fairly pure seeds. Fennel and Dill will cross so only grow one for seeds

Parsley Flower
The first group are the Volunteer Plants, these are the ones that germinate on their own accord in the garden.  I don't make an effort in planting or collecting seeds, I just let the flower heads develop from the best plants at the end of their life-cycle. After the seeds have formed and dried, nature disperses them around for me. Sometimes a gentle shake in the direction I want the seeds to fall is all that is needed. The next step is to manage the volunteers and create order from the chaos. Identifying plants while they're juveniles is a very important gardening skill that gets better with practice.  In my garden these plants are the rocket, Lettuce and parsley, borage, parsnips and dill and I'm always guaranteed a constant supply of these if I plan my beds to leave a few of each plant to go to seed.

The next group are the ones I spend a little more effort on and plan to let the plants go to seed, which I will then collect and dry for storing until the next suitable time for planting.

Peas, the best pods from the best plant was clearly marked so it wasn't picked.

Carrot sending up thick flower stalk

Carrot flower just forming, i will stake to give it some support as it will be a good 4-6 weeks before seed is mature and ready for collection


Broad Beans again like the peas these are the best pods, from the best producing plants.
This group of plants are the peas, broad beans, carrots, and Kale. I have to plan these a little better, leaving the ones I want to save to mature, then collecting for drying. The Peas and beans will dry on the bush then once the whole plant has started to brown off and dry I pull it up and hang them up for another week to dry out some more before I pick the pods off. The carrots will have been in since last spring, so I have planned to leave this space in my bed for them to sit over winter and send up a big thick flower stalk. I also need to stake these, keeping a close eye on the seed head as it starts to brown so I can cover with a paper bag before the seeds fall and spread all over the place, I will also leave these to hang  with the bag covering them for several weeks before I process them for seeds.
As for the kale I want to save the cavalo nero  seeds, not much is needed but I have been picking out the flowering heads of the other varieties I don't want, as this season I grew several types. I have also been picking out the flower heads of the cavalo nero plants that have been attacked more by insects, and haven't really preformed well at all, this ensures that the weaker plants don't breed with the better ones.

I hope these hints have helped you decide what you might leave to go to seed and which ones you need to give a little more thought to.

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Pumpkins Zucchini & Melons - Clearing up what you can and cant do

Pumpkins Zucchini  Melons, & Cucumbers, these are the Cucurbits, and they always attract the most confusion and questions when it comes to seed saving.
The best way to approach it is at the beginning of the growing season so that you can plan what you grow and what to do when it comes to saving seeds.

My biggest tip if you want to save seeds from The Cucurbits - ONLY GROW ONE TYPE from each group, that way there is no confusion with cross- pollination.
When it comes to knowing which group it comes from ASK that's what I'm here for, but use this as a general guide.

Some species are simple --- cucumbers are all in the same species (Cucumis sativus) while most melons are in a related but distinct species (Cucumis melo.)  Watermelons are in their own species --- Citrillus vulgaris.  So, if you want to save cucumber seeds, plan to only grow one variety of cucumber in your garden.  Same with melons, though you can grow watermelons and canteloupes side by side with no problems since they're in different species.

There are actually four species which cover the vegetables we call pumpkins/squashes - one from each group may be grown together without crossing


Curcurbita maxima
These are generally the big pumkins. Jarrahdale; Qld. Blue; Atlantic Giant; Golden Nugget; Baby Blue; Triamble; Hubbard; Turban; Banana; and Buttercup
Queensland Blue - - large pumpkin, dark slate grey ribbed skin, sweet deep orange flesh, top keeper

Triamble – large 3-lobed, tough grey skin, deep orange flesh, sweet, firm & dry

Ironbark – hard skin, dry orange flesh

Australian Butter – similar to Qld Blue, with yellow skin, mildew resistant

Blue Banana – thick firm orange-yellow flesh, pale blue skin, approx 15 x 40 cms, does well in dry, good keeper

Curcurbita moschata
Butternuts; Japs; Crookneck (Golden cushaw), Grammas.
Paw Paw gramma – sweet, thick deep yellow flesh with nutty flavour, trailing vine, fruit to 4kg, appearance of pawpaw, disease resistant

Bink’s gramma – Robena calls this one of the best taste wise

Dennis’ giant butternut – a fat butternut

Dennis’ trombone – green skin, trombone shape with long neck, sweet & used for pies, scones, soup etc

Long neck butternut – long necks mean more solid flesh with no cavity

Curcurbita pepo
all summer squashes (zucchini, yellow squashes, etc.), some of the gourds, patty pan, delicata, summer crookneck squash
Table Gem squash – heavy cropping, acorn shaped fruit approx 6”, dark green rind with thick dry orange flesh, bush, allow to mature fully before picking

Spaghetti squash – vigorous vine, cylindrical fruit to 12”, yellow, spaghetti like flesh, bake or boil (and use flesh as spaghetti, with sauce of choice)
Kumu Kumi also known as 'Kamo Kamo' by Maori people.

Curcurbita mixta
Windsor Black pumpkin – vigorous vine, dark skin, firm dry orange flesh
pumpkin like Green Striped Cushaw but this species is not common in Australia

One thing to remember with pumpkins is that if the seeds are the same - shape and colour they will cross.


If you want to grow more than one variety of the same group you will need to hand pollinate, if you don't want to or can't the following season it will grow a cross, sometimes still edible but no good for seed saving. Just enjoy the harvest, observe how each plant performed and share this information, just DON'T save the seeds. .

To hand pollinate you need to start the day before identifying male & female flowers that are almost ready to open. They are starting to yellow but still shut tightly.


Female flowers. A tiny baby pumpkin or swelling is located between the stem and the flower. The female flower will be close to the vine and the stem will only be a couple of inches long. In the center is a multi segmented stigma which must be pollinated in order for the fruit to develop. the picture above shows a mature female with her flower open. You need to select one that is un-opened, seal it and come back to it the next day.
and here are some more examples of female flowers


Female Watermelon flower (open)


Female Cucumber flower


Female Zucchini Flower




Male Flowers are on a stem that is fairly thin and shoots up several inches to a foot above the vine. The center stamen contains the pollen. Pollen is mature if it readily comes off the stamen and onto your finger. Again identify unopened flower, seal then come back to the next day. You really should select & isolate more than one male flower.




 some more male examples

Male Zucchini flower (closed good one for selection)
  
Male Zucchini (open)

Male Watermelon flower (open)

Some Side by side comparisons
Zucchini (female top/ male bottom)
Zucchini ideal for hand pollination selection flowers have not yet opened (female left/male right)


Cucumber  (female top/Male bottom)



Watermelons (male top / female Bottom)




Hubbard Squash flowers (female right/male left)
 
To make sure the pollen is mature. Touch the stamen with your finger and see if tiny yellow specks(the pollen) come off on your hand. Pull off the petals to expose the stamen which contains the pollen.


Using the stamen itself  gently rub the pollen onto the inside stigma of the female flower. Make sure to come in contact with all segments of the stigma.You really should try to use more than one male flower to get the right genetics.


Hand pollination is now complete!


Now to avoid any further insect pollination of the female flower you must prevent insects from getting in there. A fleece bag, pair of stockings, a peg or some masking tape lightly tied over the female flower will do.

 If pollination did not occur, the baby pumpkin below the female flower will shrivel and die.
I also recommend that you watch  this excellent demonstration http://youtu.be/yrZ-VCI4Edc


Watermelons and cucumbers are essentially the same process but a little more fiddly because of smaller flowers this is another excellent demonstration http;//youtu.be/q5yz4_mPSXM

While you re going I suggest that you read the following, its from an excellent French site and has great info about pumpkins. http://masdudiable.com/2011/03/12/pumpkins/




Monday, October 3, 2011

Monthly Natter - October

As I write this I look outdoors enviously as its beautiful day and all inspired by our meeting yesterday I want to get out in garden.
With spring finally here hopefully you have made a start on the summer veges in a warm spot or are planning what to put in next month. Don't bother planting anything out directly in beds this early otherwise they will just struggle. You can put in some root veg, maybe try snow peas or some Asian greens. We have lots of chard seeds (silverbeet) if you're will to give them a go and they are easy to grow too.

Our meeting at Val & Richard's place was terrific, luckily the weather was great too. I will post some info on her garden with some pics soon.
I hope you all received both the address update and newsletter. Apologies to those that didn't, I was away on holidays, so please let me know and I'll forward immediately.

If you haven't RSVP to our Rushworth garden visit please do i need numbers ASAP.

Finally some wisdom from Jackie French " give your local school or preschool a strawberry plant for each kid so they can wait and watch and pick and wonder"



Bye for now Carley